Within the culinary world, one of the most sensuous pleasures, at least in my
opinion, is the tasting of chocolate. Well first of all, it is chocolate. You already can’t go wrong with that. But secondly it is one of the richest and decadent food ingredients out there. It emanates sensuality just sitting there. But once you learn to taste it…..you will be seduced for eternity.
I have had many people in my tastings tell me they don’t like chocolate. (They are usually attending only because someone else brought them). This of course always brings a twinkle to my eye, and my response is, “just try this out and then tell me afterwards if you still don’t like chocolate.” My conversion rate so far? 100%. This is mainly due to, I believe, the quality of chocolate out in the mass market. It isn’t chocolate, it is candy. Why? Too much sugar. That is usually the main complaint I get from people, they don’t like chocolate because it is too sweet. But real chocolate only has just enough sugar to allow the bean to express itself. And when tried it opens up doors to a whole new chocolate world. And those that do like sweet chocolate? They turn into even worse chocoholics when they taste a good quality milk chocolate. It is a win win for everyone.
Another aspect that falls into play regarding a taste for chocolate is how we eat chocolate. As a society we rush ourselves. We are always running around trying to fit a million things into our schedule so we never take the time to focus properly on the task in front of us. And that includes eating. When was the last time you really paid attention to the flavours in a meal that you were eating? Probably awhile. We shovel our food down rather than truly tasting it. And the same goes for chocolate. However chocolate was not meant to be eaten that way. Nor was any food for that matter, but most definitely not chocolate. Chocolate is a deeply sensual experience and should be treated as such. Not rushed, but savoured. One of my goals is to bring back the art of tasting, one chocolate at a time.
So how do we taste chocolate properly? Like wine, there is a full tasting process, and although I could probably write a novel on the topic, I have pulled together the basic steps below to help you begin living the real chocolate experience. These are the ones that I personally feel work the best, however that isn’t to say that there aren’t other methods out there. I am starting with dark and semi-sweet chocolates as I believe each type deserves its own post. Later on I will go into more detail on milk and white chocolate. So let’s begin, and I can guarantee you will never look upon chocolate in the same again…
Sight
Chocolate has a lovely nuance of shades that most of us don’t even realize are there. They vary between dark violet to rustic red. The violet or red hues depend on the varietal of bean used. Texture also comes into play here. Does the chocolate look smooth or grainy and brittle? Although it is subtle, the visual aspect of chocolate has a great impact on it’s attraction. If you had to choose between a smooth, rich looking piece of chocolate or a dry grainy one, which one would you choose? Exactly.
1. Take a few pieces of a dark, semi-sweet or milk chocolate (or a mix of all) and place them on a white plate or napkin.
2. Observe the hues. Pick each one up, closely look at how the colours within the chocolate change. Are they reddish brown or violet brown? Dark or light? Is there any white film like substance on the top of the chocolate? (This is called bloom or crystallization).
3. Now look at the texture. Is it smooth? Is it grainy? Is it brittle? Does the piece snap when you break it? Or does it just break apart softly? Are there small holes in it? Which one is the most attractive to you?
Aroma
The aromas that are found in a piece of chocolate are almost identical to those found in wine. Therefore why haven’t we noticed them before? We are too busy shoveling the chocolate down or the chocolate has been overrun by sugar. Or possibly the beans that were used were low quality, and were either over roasted or under/over fermented. Whatever the reason, it is actually difficult to find a good piece of chocolate that emanates its original aromas. However, the good news is that there is a new generation of chocolatiers that are not skimping on the quality and creating beautiful aromatic bars fully expressing the lovely beans that were used. (See resources at the end of the post for examples).
1. Take a piece of chocolate and gently rub it between your two fingers. The heat off of your fingers will help the aromas release from the bar.
2. Slowly smell the chocolate. Take in all of the aromas. Once you move past the chocolate what aromas do you find? Fruity? Nutty? Earthy? Floral? Even if you don’t find any of these, just take your time to enjoy the aroma. Feel it, let it permeate. It truly is a pleasure that we don’t often indulge in and worth every minute.
Taste
Finally. Taste. Yes, after all of that we actually now get to taste the chocolate. However not in the same way we normally would. Chocolate has different layers of aromas that only come out when we take the time to actually let it melt in our mouth before swallowing it in its entirety. There are 4 phases of the taste phase:
1. Initial Taste: This is the first moment that you pop the chocolate into your mouth. The first 10-15 seconds more or less. What flavours do you taste? What is your first impression of it?
2. Middle Taste: This is when you begin to slowly chew the chocolate and let it melt completely in your mouth. No swallowing! And yes this takes discipline. The chewing and melting process release hidden flavours in the chocolate, and this is one of the most surprising steps. Here the fruity or nutty flavours begin to come out like a quick burst, pleasantly surprising the chocolate taster. Also note the texture in your mouth, does it melt easily, is it smooth, etc.
3. The Short Finish: This is the moment you actually swallow the chocolate and what you sense immediately only your throat. Oftentimes the chocolate, tannins, smokiness, earthiness come out here. The texture also plays an important part. It should be a nice and smooth finish. And there should be flavour still in your throat. If you have a chocolate without a finish there is definitely a problem with it.
4. The Long Finish: This takes place 60 seconds after you have swallowed. You should still feel lingering aromas and flavours. And the texture as well. What do you sense? What flavours remain in your throat? What texture lingers?
Once you have tried this method of tasting chocolate, you will begin experiencing chocolate in a completely different way. It will elevate your chocolate eating experience to a completely new level and you will begin to taste what chocolate is really about. Enjoy!
Resources
Chocolatiers bringing in the new chocolate regime:
Mast Brothers Chocolate
Claudio Corallo
Patric Chocolate
Amedei
Tcho
Soma Chocolate
Patrick Roger
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